Practical info


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Lexique cynophile – Infos diverses

Dog-handling lexicon – Miscellaneous information

La laisse à enrouleur 

The retractable lead

Toys to avoid

In this article, I’m going to tell you what toys you shouldn’t play with, because they can harm your dog’s physical integrity and some can even harm your puppy’s growth!

Marrow bones such as Beef femur, vertebrae, etc.
(Same for bones from other large ruminants)

Marrow bones are often given generously by your butcher or bought in pet shops, but they are dangerous for your dog (no matter how big his jaw is).


Beef bones are very hard and (basically) cannot be eaten. The only canine species that can eat this type of bone is the hyena.

You run the risk of breaking one or more of your dog’s teeth or of deviating the mandible (lower jaw), which is extremely painful for him.


Another risk we don’t think about is the ‘health’ aspect, as the beef bone is not edible in its entirety and will be lying around the garden or the house, becoming a breeding ground for pathogens and possibly damaging your dog’s health.


‘Unless you have a hyena in your house, don’t give it this type of bone.’

Deer antlers, buffalo horn, olive wood, etc.

I was recently told by an orthodontic specialist at the ADVETIA hospital in the Paris region that these toys should all be avoided.
He explained that he had never seen so many dental fractures and jaw problems as since the democratisation of these toys.


He told me that we absolutely had to raise awareness of this issue, and that’s what I’m doing.


These toys are almost as hard as marrow bones and pose the same health risk.

Tennis balls
(not intended for dogs)
and some pierced dog balls.

Although there are still unfounded rumours that tennis balls may contain gas that is toxic to dogs, this is not why they should be avoided.


The coating on these balls is abrasive and is likely to gradually and abnormally file down the dog’s teeth.

As for pierced balls, always make sure there are 2 large holes on each side, to avoid your dog getting his tongue stuck in them and choking.


You also need to take into account the size of your dog’s jaw, because if the ball is too small, there’s also a risk of choking!


There’s also a risk of your dog swallowing the coating if the tennis ball isn’t specially designed for him.

Rope or pull toy for boxers!

I’m being specific about the boxer on purpose and I’ll explain why.
The boxer is one of the so-called brachycephalic dogs and, like many of them, has a ‘prognathic’ jaw (the lower jaw passes in front of the upper).


When you play tug-of-war with your adult boxer, it’s not a problem (provided you’re not pulling like crazy either), but with a growing puppy, beware of damage!


I’m talking here to all the future families of my puppies and to all owners of dogs with a prognathic jaw.
The aim of the game of tug-of-war is to pull each side and the strongest wins (in my house, it’s often my dogs who win).


You pull with your arms and the dog only has his jaw to pull with.


At the very beginning of its life, a puppy’s skeleton is made up mainly of cartilage, which will gradually give way to bone.

A boxer’s jaw will be finished at around 1 year of age or more, depending on the individual, and pulling on it with a rope will cause it to move too far forward.


As a result, part of the mandible (lower jaw) will appear, along with the incisors and fangs.
In the worst case, the jaw may be completely out of line (lower jaw, twisted).


Depending on the severity and exaggeration of the prognathism, this can become embarrassing for your dog (difficulty eating, pain, abrasion of abnormal teeth, etc.).


For a LOF puppy, if the prognathism is exaggerated, if the jaw is deviated, if the incisors and fangs are visible when the jaw is closed, your boxer will not be confirmable.

So what do we give them?

This reduces the ‘field of possibilities’ and the dog’s need to chew is more or less increased.

You can meet this need with adapted toys and treats that can be eaten in their entirety quickly, such as :

– Chicken feet
– Small poultry necks
– Kong-type toys with pimples (great for gums)
– Dentastix-type treats
– Rubber or latex stick toys.
– Toys with ropes (only with adult dogs)
– Balls with holes on both sides

Always make sure you give your dog a toy that’s the right size for him, and always stay close to him when he’s playing.
Natural or unnatural toys can be dangerous, so always ask yourself the right questions before giving them to your dog,
– Is it suitable for his size?
– Is my dog a ‘relentless chewer*’?
– Is the toy too hard? What material is it made of?
– How do you clean and disinfect the toy after use?
– Is my puppy one of the prognathic breeds?
– Is the toy (if it’s a consumable) edible in its entirety?

You now have a good basis for thinking. The list of toys to be avoided is not exhaustive and is subject to change.

*Relentless chewer = A dog that doesn’t know when to stop chewing its own toy, and also tends to destroy it.
This type of chewer is more likely to injure himself. If this is the case with your dog, leave the toy for a few minutes and take it away. You can also opt for interaction games.

A little sweetness?

Homemade or natural treats for your dog.

I like to please my dogs without going to the trouble of making ‘GREAT CUISINE’.
Below, you’ll find some simple recipes with few ingredients that are natural for your dog.


Disclaimer: the treat is occasional and given in small quantities, and is in no way a substitute for a balanced diet suited to your dog’s well-being.


(If you have any recipe ideas, please share them with me and I’ll add them here with a reference to you).

The dehydrator

I don’t use many appliances in my day-to-day cooking, but if there’s one thing I’d recommend for making simple, natural treats, it’s a dehydrator.


The dehydrator is suitable for all budgets, costing from €30 to over €100.
Of course, we’re not counting the so-called ‘professional’ ranges.

Dried meats

Beef, chicken, fish, offal (heart, liver, lungs, rumen).
It takes an average of 14 hours at 50°-70°.

You need to cut the pieces very finely. This reduces the time taken for the meat to dehydrate.

Note that for offal such as liver, brains, etc., the temperature and time will need to be adapted. You will need to adjust the temperature and time.
Offal generally takes longer to dry.

For fish, it’s best to make fillets or cut the fish in half lengthways.

Dried fruit and vegetables

Apples, bananas, strawberries, pineapple, carrots, squash …

Just about anything a dog can eat.

You need to look carefully at the moisture content of each food and adjust your machine accordingly.


For vegetables and fruit, you don’t need to go to 70°, but a banana (you should allow 7 hours at around 50°) will take longer than a carrot.

A refreshing break

What could be better than a nice ice cream on a hot summer’s day?

Here’s a quick and easy recipe that’s sure to please your dog.

Melon and milk kefir ice cream

Ingredients :
– 250 g melon
– 250 g milk kefir
– 1 herring (as a stick)
– An ice-cream tub. (empty yoghurt pot, plastic glass, etc.)

Blend the melon and add the milk kefir to the blender.
Pour into an ice-cream tub. Place 1 herring in the centre.
Chill in the fridge for a few hours.

It’s ready!


You don’t have to use milk kefir or anything else.
You can replace the herring with a dog biscuit or a carrot (dogs love them).

Natural treats ready to use!

I often place an order with a supplier of natural treats to vary the pleasures of chewing and taste.

It’s easy to find a seller by searching the internet or social networks.

However, be sure to check that the treat is ‘compatible’ with your dog’s abilities.

Some natural treats may be too hard for your dog’s jaw and there is a real risk of injury or obstruction.

Candy Dog's shop

I order from CANDY DOG’S SHOP if I need treats for my dogs.


This seller has a wide choice and classifications according to your dog’s chewing ability.
My dogs’ favourite treats are chicken feet jerky or puffed chicken feet.
This treat is perfect for a medium-sized puppy from 3 months of age.

Page en cours de création.

Atibox and Wubox

A little history

The ATIBOX was created in Strasbourg in 1950 on the initiative of the Boxer Club de France, the Société Centrale Canine de Paris and the leaders of the boxer clubs.

The purpose of the ATIBOX

ATIBOX is an association that organises worldwide beauty and working events every year, with the aim of promoting the Boxer.

You will find the elite of the canine world, superb subjects representing as many breed standards as possible.
During a weekend of exhibitions, the Boxers are selected for their physical or working qualities (there are 2 ATIBOX events, one for beauty and the other for work).

This event is a great honor for all the breeders, as it recognises their work and investment.

Thanks to this, the ATIBOX champion dog (beauty or working) will either be used much more for stud (in the case of a stallion), or the litters of a champion bitch will be promoted, all with the aim of contributing to the improvement of the Boxer.

ATIBOX member countries

Not all countries are members of this association, as you will see below.

Here is the list of current ATIBOX member countries:


Vidéo de l’ATIBOX 2022 en Espagne 

ATIBOX is the ONLY organisation recognised by the FCI (Fédération Cynologique Internationale).
It is possible that there are ATIBOX champions on your dog’s pedigree, as this is automatically marked thanks to its recognition by the FCI.

A little history

WUBOX was created very recently, in 2020 in Frankfurt (Germany) on the initiative of the German Boxer Club.

Le but de la WUBOX

The aim of the WUBOX is the same as the ATIBOX,
to promote the boxer through a beauty event and a work event.

WUBOX member countries

Not all countries are members of this association, as you will see below.
Here is the list of current WUBOX member countries:


Vidéo de la WUBOX  2021.

Unlike the ATIBOX, the WUBOX is NOT recognised by the FCI (Fédération Cynologique Internationale), although the latter is aware of its existence.


If you would like to see or take part in any of these events, or if you would simply like more information, please find below the links to the two associations:

Even if your country belongs to only one association, you can of course take part in the events of both.

The retractable lead

In this article, I’m not going to talk about education and so on.

I’m just going to tell you about the usefulness of this object, the facts, the situations I’ve encountered and finally, I’ll give you my opinion on it.

Here, here …

Apart from the fact that it’s a ‘really fake’ super tip for teaching dogs to ‘heel’ and ‘blah blah… a safe walk’.
I won’t comment on this video.

The aim is to see how to use it.

It looks pretty good on paper, doesn’t it?

Using the retractable lead in real life...

As you know, there’s a huge gap between what’s written on paper and what actually happens.


I see small and large dogs at the end of this lead in virtual freedom, (apart from the wire which reassures the owner) the dog does what it wants…

The situations I have witnessed.

You’re in the car and you see a person on the right-hand pavement and a small dog on the left-hand pavement. Of course, the lead itself (or rather the thread) you see at the last moment.

the owner of the dog who runs headlong down the road to retrieve his dog, which is obviously not responding to his call.
The person almost gets hit, because they were in a panic, their dog not paying any attention to them.

Owners in the middle of the city, during a crowded market, with their dog at the end of a lead free to tangle in the legs of onlookers (too bad if a few falls over).

A simple walk that goes wrong, because you think that the dog opposite is ‘secured’ by the lead and you realise that the owner hasn’t locked his lead while his dog is running at you.
‘What do I do if my dog is a bit hungry and his meal comes running towards him?

Some spine-chilling videos!

Enough blah blah, pictures speak louder.
I’ve opted for fairness, by putting a ‘small’ and a ‘big’ dog.

Here’s a misuse of the retractable lead

– No effective restraint for your dog.

– No direct access to the dog.

– An inattentive owner who does not check whether the dog is following him.

– No leash length lock or an owner who does not know how to use the leash.

These mistakes put your dog’s life at risk.

Incorrect use of the retractable lead

– Inability to exert real, effective force on the lead in an emergency.

– Faulty, unreliable locking system.

– Risk of injury from the rope, which may be flat nylon or rope.

In this case, the leash endangers the lives of others.

Who is at fault here?

The lead itself, or the person holding it?

I know that many people would like the fault to lie with the leash, and I apologise for that, but no, the fault lies with the person holding it.


And why is that?

Because of a lack of information about the object, the situations in which it’s best used and also because it’s easy! (No need to untie him, so why teach him to recall and walk on a lead?)


I’ve noticed that a lot of people have ‘other heads’ when they walk their dog (understandably, it’s a relaxing moment), except that you’re legally responsible in the event of an accident caused by your dog. So ‘your head elsewhere’ is fine, but not too much…


Also, use a modicum of common sense: in a busy street, be sure to shorten your lead, especially with the latch. Adapt to the situation and the place where you’re walking.


Teaching your dog to recall and walk on a lead will save you a lot of trouble.

My opinion on this

From what I’ve seen, almost all the people I’ve come across with this type of lead have absolutely no idea how to manage their dogs (yes, I’ve seen several dogs being held at the same time on winding leads).


Without necessarily talking about accidents, when you’re talking to someone and the dog hops around you with its lead, it’s very unpleasant.

I sincerely believe that this type of lead should not be sold over the counter to private individuals.
Only insiders should have access to them for specific reasons.

Since there are too many abuses, we might as well avoid leaving it in just anyone’s hands.

Dog-handling lexicon - Miscellaneous information

What is the LOF?

Many people on social networks or in the street are unfamiliar with the LOF (for dogs) and LOOF (for cats) acronyms.


I’m going to explain what it is and what it’s used for, but first of all, let’s break it down.


L: Livre O: Origine F: Française
Livre des Origines Française


As it stands, the acronym isn’t ‘right’, because the breeds in the Book are not all of French origin! When we know that the boxer is of German origin.


The acronym should normally have read as follows: LFO = Livre Français des Origines.


This famous book is quite simply a large directory of breeds recognised by the FCI (I’ll explain what it is below). For the record, this register was created in 1885 by the founders of the Société Centrale Canine (again, I’ll explain below).

My dog is LOF, but what does that get me?

The LOF Boxer is not exclusively reserved for those involved in competitions or breeding.


Having a LOF puppy is first and foremost a guarantee of traceability and a guarantee of quality. It allows you to know your puppy’s family tree over 5 generations.

So you know what your puppy should look like as he grows up.


Although screening tests are not compulsory, most breeders have their dogs screened.


Thanks to this traceability, you are informed of the results of these health tests. The LOF (indirectly) allows you to have a puppy bred in good conditions with a minimum of knowledge of puppy/dog physiology and genealogy.

This is not the case with a ‘lambda’ person who is going to breed ‘RIRI’ and ‘FIFIE’, with no health screening, no traceability, no knowledge of canine physiology and even less in genealogy.

The LOF also makes it possible to classify your dog as ‘Purebred’, a non-LOF dog being considered as ‘Type’ even if the parents are of the same breed.

When you have a LOF dog, you can have it confirmed. This confirmation attests that your dog complies with the breed standard (it will be observed and measured from every angle); if it is ‘out of standard’ (does not comply with the breed standard), it will not be confirmable/confirmed.

For example: a dog that does not have its testicles descended will not be confirmed.


Dogs registered in the LOF can also compete in official events (beauty shows, working events and certain other dog sports).


Dogs that are LOF and confirmed (and ideally with good health records) can reproduce.

The SCC (Société Centrale Canine)

It is the reference organisation for dog fancy in France.

The pedigree you have in your hand is issued by the SCC.

Here is the link to the SCC website 

The purpose of the Société Centrale Canine (extract from the text on the SCC website): ‘…The Société Centrale Canine (or Central Kennel Club) is the mainstay of French dog sports. The Federation, known as the ‘Société Centrale Canine’, for the improvement of dog breeds in France, was founded in 1882. It was recognised as a public utility organisation by decree on 28 April 1914. Its aims are to promote dog breeds in France and to promote and protect the various roles played by dogs in society. It federates all the territorial dog associations…’

The FCI (Fédération Cynologique Internationale)

It is the world organisation for dog sports (above the SCC and breed clubs).

It issues titles, diplomas, etc. It organises beauty shows and working shows. I invite you to follow this link to find out more:

Its purpose (extract from the text on the FCI website):

‘…The Fédération Cynologique Internationale was created on 22 May 1911 with the aim of encouraging and protecting cynology and purebred dogs by all means deemed desirable …’

Glossary of competition abbreviations

Shows: explanation of classes
When you go to shows with your dog, you must pass through the ring according to your dog’s class, which varies according to its age:

Puppy: for dogs aged between 6 and 9 months – Young: for all dogs aged between 9 and 18 months.

from 6 to 9 months

from 9 to 18 months

for dogs aged between 15 and 24 months.

for dogs aged at least 15 months.

for dogs aged 8 or over.

reserved exclusively for dogs aged at least 15 months, declared National Beauty Champions of F.C.I. member countries and F.C.I. International Champions.

for dogs that have reached the minimum age of 15 months and hold the attestation allowing entry into the working class, i.e. the dog must have taken part in an open class event and obtained the minimum mark of 100 points (the award must be obtained before the closing date for entries). A special attestation is issued on request by the SCC and a photocopy of this document must be attached to the entry form.


After you have appeared before the judge, he or she will give you a slip of paper with his or her overall assessment and a qualification on it. Here is the list of qualifications.

A dog that comes very close to the ideal breed standard – presented in perfect condition, with a harmonious whole and balanced temperament, with ‘class’ and a brilliant appearance. The superior qualities of the dog in relation to the breed will make it possible to ignore a few imperfections, but it will have the typical characteristics of its sex..

Qualification attributed to a dog perfectly typed, balanced in its proportions, in good physical condition. A few minor faults, but not morphological ones, will be tolerated. This qualification can only reward a dog of quality.

Qualification attributed to a dog with the characteristics of the breed but with faults, provided that these are not crippling.

Qualification given to a dog that is sufficiently typified, but has no notable qualities or is not in good physical condition.

Describes a dog that is sufficiently typical, but has no obvious qualities.

Assigned to a subject that does not correspond to the type required by the Standard.

This type is often unconfirmable.

for baby and pupy classes only, does not give rise to a ranking.

Certificates of proficiency and champion titles

Shows: explanation of classes
When you take your dog to shows, you must pass through the ring according to your dog’s class, which varies according to its age:

Certificate of Compliance with the Standard

can only be awarded to a dog classified ‘1st Excellent’ in Open, Intermediate or Working Class.

Reservation of the Certificate of Suitability for Conformity to the Standard

May be converted into a C.A.C.S., if the dog proposed for the C.A.C.S. :

a°) does not qualify for this award because of its age or origins.
b°) already holds the title of National Beauty Champion.

Certificate of aptitude for the Beauty Championship
Only allowed in the Open, Intermediate, Working and Champion classes at international shows.

Fitness reserve for the Championship of Beauty

May be converted into a C.A.C.I.B. if the dog proposed for the C.A.C.I.B.:

a°) does not qualify for this award because of its age, origins, etc…
b°) already holds the title of National Beauty Champion.

The dog and bitch nominated for the C.A.C.I.B. compete for Best of Breed, as well as Best Young Male and Best Young Female who have been awarded ‘excellent’ in the young class, and Best Veteran who has been awarded ‘excellent’. The BIS is awarded to the best dog of the opposite sex.

The dogs designated ‘Best of Breed’ will be grouped together to select the Best Dog in each Group.

The best dogs in each group will compete at the end of the show for the title of Best Dog in Show.

Breed Club Beauty Championship Aptitude Certificate

 Reservation of the precedent if it cannot be approved.

Certificate of Aptitude for the Young Beauty Championship of the Breed Club.

Reservation of the precedent if it cannot be approved

Standard Compliance Champion (French Champion)

International Beauty Champion
In addition to the titles you can obtain abroad.

Certificate of Sociability and Fitness for Use

A small exception that doesn’t fit in with the beauty critieria but more with the work, which I know.

For working dogs.

After you have appeared before the judge, he or she will give you a slip of paper with his or her overall assessment and a qualification on it. Here is the list of qualifications

National Defense Dog Certificate (obtained before RING level 1)

Use tests. (Practised only in France) [Obedience discipline + defence discipline].

A variant of the ring practised internationally.

Certificate (obtained before RCI level 1).

Use tests. Practised internationally, tracking discipline + obedience discipline + defence discipline.

Different levels A, B, C, TL,…..

Pistage with French rules

Tracking with international rules.

More ‘utility’-focused tracking.

Natural Aptitudes Test

Reservation of the precedent if it cannot be approved.

Acronyms used in boxer healthcare

Here, I’m going to talk to you about the acronyms that only apply to boxer health.
In the ‘Health and natural remedies’ section, I’ll tell you about the various screening tests and their results. I’m going to explain the acronyms in detail, so that you can see the results at a glance when you see a graphic design to announce a ‘wedding’ or simply when you read a post on the net about one or more dogs.

HD A/A: Free of dysplasia
HD B/B: Much the same as HD A, but with normal congruence or imperfect congruence with an angle between 100° and 105° (105° being better).
HD C/C: Mild dysplasia

 Moderate dysplasia (from this point on, reproduction is not recommended).

Please note
If your dog has one hip classified A and the other D your dog will return to, HD D = non-breeding not recommended!

It can be written in 2 ways: SPD … or SP …

SPD 0 : Unaffected
SPD 1 : Beginning of bone growth and/or ligament hypertrophy.
SPD 2: Thicker ligament and distinct bony outgrowth
SPD 3: Bone outgrowth almost forms a bridge
SPD 4 : Complete bridge formed.

Breeding a dog with too much damage should be avoided.

It is scored AS … / PS … from 0 to 4.
Breeding is strongly discouraged for an AS2/PS0, AS2/PS2 or AS0/PS2 dog and the figures above.

RD-0 = Unaffected Renal Dysplasia
RD-1 = Renal Dysplasia Affected

Needless to say, an affected dog must not reproduce!

The AFB (Association Française du Boxer), the breed club.

You may see a dog’s file on the net with the acronym :
IS… + a number from 1 to 13.
IS: Health Index

The number following the Health Index is based on the results of health screening (dysplasia, aortic and pulmonary stenosis, spondylosis and a physical test called Endurance).
There is a reference table, please follow this link :

DNA identification

To be sure that your dog has the same parent as the breeder has told you, you can check this by taking a mouth sample (see information on the SCC). : )

The result will be sent to you by post or e-mail. There are several possible results.

-ADN: Dog identified by its DNA
-ADNC: Dog identified by its DNA and compatible with its parents’ DNA
-ADNCM: Dog identified by its DNA, and which is compatible with its mother’s DNA in the absence of a result from its father’s DNA.
-ADNCP: Dog identified by its DNA, and which is compatible with its father’s DNA in the absence of a result from its mother’s DNA.


DNA identification is not compulsory, we’ll say it’s a plus, a ‘bonus’.

*Page translated by DeepL

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